SNARING A SPEEDSTER Part 2
Catching ’cuda on the drift and on anchor
[Originally published in the May/June 2023 issue of SKI-BOAT magazine]
By Justin Paynter
SIT down and wait. This is most anglers’ perception of catching ’cuda on the drift or on anchor. It couldn’t be further from the truth. Most top ’cuda fishermen will tell you that the more action you create in the water, the more likely you are to entice a bite.
When fishing these two different techniques, there are obviously pros and cons to both, but both are very productive. This article will enlighten you on how to entice a bite and ensure you give yourself the best opportunity to put a fish on the deck.
The most obvious question is: when do I do this? Well, certain areas allow for these techniques better than others. Places like, Sodwana, Cape Vidal, St Lucia, Mapelane allow for long drifts which have been proven over the years to be very successful. When I fish these areas, this would be my preferred method, depending on the weather conditions and current, of course.
Areas like deep Umdloti, also known as mid reef, river mouth and Port Edward all the way down to the reserve have produced massive fish caught on anchor.
When deciding to drift, you need to ascertain the following:
• Are the conditions favourable to drift?
• Is my boat set up correctly for this form of fishing?
• Have I got the right equipment to entice the bite?
FAVOURABLE CONDITIONS:
As I already mentioned, certain areas work extremely well for drifting as the current generally pushes you in the direction you want to go. Many areas also have long shelves that you can drift along. By this I mean that you will choose a line you’d like to drift, say 40m, and then do a drift down it.
I tend to do around three drifts down a certain line, always ensuring that I watch my GPS and fishfinder unit as this will show me if I am drifting down the line I want to drift, and to see if there are any showings.
If I haven’t had a pull after three drifts, or if I haven’t seen any decent showings, I will then choose a different line.
Once you can ascertain the depth at which the fish are feeding, you will be able to determine where they are holding. This will mean that you do shorter drifts over the mark where you have had the pulls.
Current plays a huge role and so does the wind factor. You can’t drift and expect to catch fish if there is no current and you aren’t moving. You also can’t position your boat in a drift, and have current working against the wind. This will affect your drift and, in some cases, depending on the strength of the wind and current, you might move in the opposite direction to which you wanted to go.
These factors can only be assessed on the day when you arrive at the area you want to drift along. When you get to your mark, switch off the engines and just wait a few minutes to see how the boat behaves.
Turning your engines in a specific direction, will also improve a drift line and direction, and this has also been covered in previous articles. If you are happy with the direction in which you are moving, go up about 600- to 800m from the first mark you want to drift over and start setting up.
SETUP:
When you’re drifting, you want the boat to turn 90 degrees to the shelf. This gives you a much bigger surface area to fish off, as you have one whole side of the boat and the stern on which to place rods.
As I have said in previous articles, it is so vital that you have numerous rod holders on the transom of the boat, along the gunnel and a standup one on the T-top.
When drifting, I like to fish four rods. The first rod I will put out the back, with an 8 ounce sinker, and the next will be a surface bait far out on the T-top or stand-up holder. I will then put one out from the bow with a 3 ounce sinker, and then a short flat line along the gunnel.
ENTICE THE BITE:
So now that the drift is perfect and the rods are setup do we just sit and wait? No, that’s not what we do! It is your job to ensure that an inquisitive ’cuda moves closer to your baits.
There are a few ways you can do this:
• Use a flasher on your downrigger. This will create action and flash in the water, which will
bring fish in to see what is happening under your boat.
• Whipping a spoon or buck tailing or throwing a surface bait is a great way to attract fish to your baits. The new Dirty Prawn Bucktails have been working exceptionally well this season, as have the Rapala Flash-X Skitter. They have produced some outstanding catches along the whole KwaZulu-Natal coast.
• I would also try a variety of baits, including live- and dead baits. On a drift, a sosatie stick works well on an upright rod.
With regard to tackle, as I’ve mentioned in previous articles, it all comes down to preference. I like a rod with a soft tip because it allows the bait to have a more natural action in the water. I am currently using the Kingfisher Poseidon Couta Lite and the Daiwa Grandwave boat 701 rod.
I have them paired with the Daiwa Saltist Blue 40 H. I used to use the 50 H but just find that the 40 H combined with those rods is really well balanced. Again, it all depends on how deep your pockets go and your preference in brands. These have worked for me, they are robust and hard wearing, and I will continue to use them for many years to come.
I generally like to fish 10kg line, as that is our normal line class for competitive angling, with no more than a 40 lb leader. However, if I am going to places like Zinkwazi and St Lucia or am fishing deeper waters, I’ll fish anywhere from 12- to 15kg line class. I would then opt not to fish with a leader, obviously water condition dependent.
Just remember, these fish are hunters; they prey on bait fish, so the more action you create in the water, the more chance you have of getting a bite as they will come to see what is happening.